Rear Wheel Removal

Hi.

I am intersested in finding out how to remove the rear wheel but cannot find any information relating to this on the forum.

Could someone please direct me to a tutorial, if there is one, or give some guidance on how to remove the rear wheel.

Some maxi scoots are easier than others i.e. I think I am right in saying that the exhaust on a Burger 400 has to be removed prior to removing rear wheel.

Thanks.

Hi Mitch.

http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/rearwheel/rearwheel.html

Eddy

The pictures tell it all----but US and I assume EU newer models have OX sensor on muffler to remove-----if shop manual is followed right side panel have to come off, too to get at connector.

Think they guy that approved this design should have to pull rear wheels out several times in one night, dark, in the rain.....and maybe a better design could be found at the same price point. Also the "packing" at the exhaust pipe muffler joint is sensitive. I try to carry a spare.



John Grinsel

mitch wrote:

Some maxi scoots are easier than others i.e. I think I am right in saying that the exhaust on a Burger 400 has to be removed prior to removing rear wheel.

Thanks.

Mitch, yes the Burger 400 exhaust needs to be removed as does the Lambda sensor in the K4 and higher.

The studs attaching the 'xaust can easily shear! I filed them away, drilled the remaining stud out and replaced with HTS nuts and bolts and coated with graphite grease.

Just a minor technicality, but I happened to notice in the Leroy Beal instructions that he said to loosen the rear axel nut with the torque wrench. That is really a "no-no" and may serve to damage the wrench or at least make it read "off". At least that's what we were taught while performing jet engine maintenance in the service. I believe a standard ratchet and socket would be more appropriate in this situation.

DickO wrote:

Just a minor technicality, but I happened to notice in the Leroy Beal instructions that he said to loosen the rear axel nut with the torque wrench. That is really a "no-no" and may serve to damage the wrench or at least make it read "off". At least that's what we were taught while performing jet engine maintenance in the service. I believe a standard ratchet and socket would be more appropriate in this situation.

We were taught the same thing in the Brit Services, (Helo maintenance), regards torque wrenches.

Don't get me started on this Waspie, don.... tooo late... @#$%!

Some time ago I loaned my torque wrench to a workmate(ex RAAF erk) based on his high profile service knowledge. Apparently he used it to undo, unsuccessfully ,a rusted up pneumatic/hydraulic fitting on a railway ballast dumper. The 3 foot pipe he used as a handle extender was of no help at all either, as it only managed to smash the pawl in the wrench.

To quote Bart Simpson "I didn't do it" ,"

it was faulty before I started using it"

I have now reassembled it and moved the good pawl to the undo position and use it for stripping down engines etc as it has remarkable leverage with the ratchet as well. Its all its good for!

I usually do not lend out tools. this was an exception due to the apparent skills of the workmate.

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There was a sticker for tool-boxes which said (more or less),

You can borrow my shirt,
You can borrow my wife,
But don't ask to borrow my Snap-On tools.

Never trust a man with a Snap-on Tool

Stop it guys, or Dale will relegate this thread to the humour section

I always thought the same as you guys, i.e. never use a torque wrench to undo stuff at which point my erstwhile colleague from the Royal Navy pointed out that TW's have a switch on them allowing them to be used either clock wise or anti..... he said wot rot if they didn't want you to undo stuff why make them so???

I got a rather shifty look for pointing out that some - 'some' nuts & bolts had a reverse thread...............

Skippy wrote:

TW's have a switch on them allowing them to be used either clock wise or anti.....

The high quality torque wrenches don't have a reverse switch. My 1/2" drive Snap-On will only tighten. The breaker bar is for loosening.

So - when I was working on aircraft, I saw another guy get a nice talking to about throwing a Snap-On torque wrench out of calibration by using it to try to loosen several hard to move bolts. After measurement, it was more than 20 lbs off on the weak side so it would indicate 100ftlbs but only be putting out 80ftlbs. Yikes.

Moral of the story - use the right tool for the right stuff.