Help. No head light

Replaced hi/lo beam, turn signal, horn switches and wiring harness. Have had issue of headlight going off when switching from high to low beam before. Knew that was the problem. Not. Fuse good. bulbs good. Lo beam relay good. Next step is to completely trace wiring harness correct? Any other suggestions before I start that disassembly?

I had a Honda Hawk NTV650. One day the headlights quit working 200 miles from home. A dealer out that way said it was the relay that turns off the headlights during start-up when you press the starter button. The dealer bypassed the relay and all was good. Did it for free because it only took a few minutes to bypass. I bought the tech lunch.

So when you turned the bike on the headlights were on. No longer turned off when you hit the starter. Never caused any issues.

Someone will chime in with the cause and fix though.

The other place that cuts the headlights is the starter button, maybe have a look/clean-up in that area before you get too carried away. When pressed in to start the engine the power is cut to the headlights to preserve battery power for the starter motor. The wires concerned are Black/Red (12v feed) and Blue/white (output to hi/lo switch). You should check whether you have a 12v live at the hi/lo switch, if not take a look at the starter switch.

I ordered my right side, starter switch from the Honda dealer and it will be here in a week. I will keep everyone up to speed as far as the price and part number goes and how long it took to replace the switch then.

I've had this problem in the past. I don't ride much at night and most of my riding is in urban situations so I'm willing to ride on dip nearly all of the time. I had the dip bulb blow and replaced it and haven't noticed the problem since. Maybe it's a little mechanical fault in the bulb and it doesn't like on and offing.

Does the dip bulb stay illuminated with high beam on an SW?

No it does not turn on. Both are out. Just out of curiosity, I am going to remove the lower bulb in a few min to verify that it is good.
As I had expected the lower bulb is good so I'm sure the upper is fine. I ordered some new Silverstar bulbs and will replace them anyway.

I started SW today and low beam is out I'm sure it's just bulb.  
Found this today WD 40 contact cleaner plastic safe.

Looks like a good product to clean control switches and other parts.

Great . Thank you very much. I have never seen WD 40 come in cans like that. I will definitely pick some up as the last specialized electrical contact spray just got finished up.

I just thought I'd chip-in here for smellybeard's question about the dip beam staying illuminated when using high beam. I believe the European models don't but the USA and Asian exports do.

I wish they both stayed illuminated because the high beam on it's own leaves you with a pitch black area right in front of the SW. It's been covered on this forum but I don't remember whether it is possible to mod the UK models.

Try a search above

I'm sure both beams on mine light together on high beam. You've got me thinking now. I'll have to go and check !

Why would someone regulate a system like that ? US both are on when high is on.

Bought a two pack Philips Crystal Vision ultra H7 bulbs on Amazon $27 one day delivery and they are here.  I know they don't last as long as OE bulbs but last set went 3 years doubt high beam will ever burn out really never use it. 2 bulbs in 6 years and 30K  low beam only.

That's a good question. My only possible reasoning is that it might get too hot in there with both bulbs on? I find myself holding on to the 'pass' switch if it's really dark.

The Swing has one of the best headlamps going imo, it looks identical to the Blackbird so has to be good as that bike hits 180MPH. That saying more light is always a good thing so maybe a bulb upgrade would be the easiest thing to do.

I cant help with the light out issue other then to say the switchgear may be the easiest thing to go wrong given all those actuations and its exposed to the elements.

I am commuting in winter over here and its one of the best bikes to be on imo , great weather protection comfy seat and decent lighting , I have also noticed the increase in performance with cold 3deg C air , she picks up better and cruises 250 RPM less for the same speed then in summer.

Still have the same issues with car drivers trying to kill me even though I am lit up like a belisha beacon , ffin cahns the lot of em! Go careful swing brothers and sisters

I was finally able to start taking apart the starter switch and noticed there was a very small wire that had come disconnected.
I ordered the original switch from the dealer and it looks like I will have to remove the fairing because the connector is down by the upper (driving light) and I received the Bevinsee H 7 LED white hi/low 6500 I bought on Amazon for $ 20.00 they will never get to hot, are a perfect replacement and will probelly last much longer that the Sylvania.
I have never heard any reports on them but I am a true believer of LEDs.

cello33 wrote: "I have also noticed the increase in performance with cold 3deg C air , she picks up better and cruises 250 RPM less for the same speed then in summer".

I've noticed that my SW rides better in colder temperatures but there doesn't seem to be any real reason for this. I think I brought this up in a topic here somewhere.

As for my headlight? maybe some LEDs would help in my case

Might be coincidence with my dragging rear brake but air is denser in winter hence more volume of air going into the engine for a given RPM. That's my understanding anyway.......

https://www.silverwing600.com/t12316-does-your-silverwing-have-an-off-day?highlight=does+your+silverwing

Check out the above. I thought it was just me!

Loosemarbles wrote:

As for my headlight? maybe some LEDs would help in my case  

But it wouldn't pass an MOT though

You could have let me down gently terrier!

Actually, I like my headlights just the way they are....

With a modicum of practice those headlight bulbs are easy to change. So it should be simple enough to use the OEM H7’s for MOT then after that upgrade for the rest of the season.

Loosemarbles wrote:

As for my headlight? maybe some LEDs would help in my case  

You'd be bettter off just upgrading your ageing OE bulbs to high performance bulbs from Osram or Philips. I changed them on my Silver Wing and the difference was very noticeable when riding at night.

As for LED lights, unless you've ridden a maxi scooter equipped with them on unlit back roads on a pitch black night, without a constant stream of oncoming traffic with headlights blazing, you can't really assess how good they are compared to halogen bulbs.

Good points gentlemen. I've never had a problem changing those bulbs although some finger dexterity is required.

Perhaps just high performance bulbs are the answer. I rarely ride at night these days so it's not a crucial mod at the moment.

The higher output ‘bulbs’ such as Osram Nightbreaker may actually have a shorter service life than the OEM type. It all depends on what you want, you pays yer money and takes yer pick !!

Replacing one or two H7 halogen bulbs every few years is hardly a major expense though is it.

I never blew an OE bulb in the eight years I owned a Silver Wing. I've still got my Silver Wings OE bulbs in the packaging the Osram Night Breakers came in.

Then there's a set of new H7 halogen bulbs that were a special buy in 'The Middle of Lidl' I never needed, and the full spare bulb kit I carried around for years and never used just because they were compulsory over in Europe.

I still carry spare bulb kit on the Forza going abroad even though it has full LED lights, and as far as I'm aware they're all sealed units.

You're more likely to shorten the life of a halogen headlight bulb from getting oils from finger marks on the glass when touching it than anything else.

I think I'll have to visit an auto-jumble and dispose of all the unused bulbs and fuses accumulated over the years.

Don't get me started on that one MikeO. I've still got an old but neat tool for use on Ford 1.3 and 1.6 litre Escorts which allows one to change the valve stem oil seals without removing the cylinder head. Why aren't all engines/tools designed that way?

Ah, yes! I still have a clutch-aligning tool from the days when we did all our own repairs, in the road. I bought it when I bought my Morris 1000 van in 1969.