Hand Brake or Parking Brake

Is there a trick to using the parking brake.

I've only had my Swing for a short while but notice when I try to use the parking brake the lever will not stay in a locked position.

I always use the parking brake, it should just lock in place as you pull it forward and release the handle. Pulling it forward again should release it. I would look at the rear wheel where the parking brake lever is, might need an adjustment there.

Thanks Old Limey.

I'll have to investigate if it actually latches at the back caliper, and not at the lever mechanism in front.

Again it would help if you give us the information asked for in your post on the V-light.

Silverwing ABS 2005 approx 45,000 miles

No modifications other than ( I believe) Dr. Pulley sliders

With that many miles it's probably time to adjust them. To adjust them put your scooter on the center stand and pull the parking brake handle up two clicks, back at the caliper for the parking brake you will find a threaded rod with a flat for a standard screw driver and a nut on it. Loosen the nut and spin the wheel by hand, turn the rod in until the wheel will not turn. Then hold the rod with a screwdriver and tighten the nut. Now pull up lightly on the parking brake handle to release. You should then be able to engage the parking brake within two or three clicks. If you look at the pads i the parking brake caliper you probably will think they are too thin but they are now very thick when new. They are not used to stop the scooter they are only there to hold the scooter when stopped so they don't need much pad. I made the mistake of buying new pads only to find the new pads were not much thicker than my old ones.

Roger,

My problem is that I don't have any 'clicks' when I pull the lever.

The ratchet pawl, or whatever system it employs, presumably in the vicinity of the lever, is not working.

There is no threaded rod at the rear caliper.
The cable goes all the way to the lever on the caliper.

This lever is attached to the caliper by a nut and washer, and perhaps the lever is spline-mounted and the adjustment is done by moving it a spline or two.

On the other hand it may be done at the cable end at the lever.

Donie wrote:

Roger,

My problem is that I don't have any 'clicks' when I pull the lever.

The ratchet pawl, or whatever system it employs, presumably in the vicinity of the lever, is not working.

There is no threaded rod at the rear caliper.
The cable goes all the way to the lever on the caliper.

This lever is attached to the caliper by a nut and washer, and perhaps the lever is spline-mounted and the adjustment is done by moving it a spline or two.

On the other hand it may be done at the cable end at the lever.

Don't really know why you are having rachet engagement issues - but here are some thoughts.
1. Get a Honda Service Manual ($30 on ebay) as there is lot's of data in that manual they you need to service you SWing.
2. Be aware that you can look up pictorial parts schematics on-line that help you see how things go together.
3. The cable goes to the lever - but lever is adjusted with locknut and threaded rod (screw) in or out. (item 16 in this schematic is the locknut http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f2f1f870021c54be6cba/parking-brake-caliper )
4. Start by adjusting (at the rear) the brake so that you have the proper pre-tension on the rachet.
5. Check to see if you are getting rachet to now engage and check that pulling up on rachet is actually pulling on cable.
6. Remove the two screws holding the parking brake BOOT (item 9 in this schematic http://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f2f1f870021c54be6cba/parking-brake-caliper ). This will allow you to see the 'rachet' area and maybe figure out what is going wrong - maybe spray some WD40 in area or some oil - may get things 'freed up'. I am pretty sure that the BOOT screws thread into cover and that you will not lose any nuts - but not 100% sure of this).
7. If above does not work then you likely will need to remove a lot of plastic to gain access to the 'rachet mechanism' for its repair/replacement. I have had this area apart once (for another matter) and did not find doing so (for me) was a simple task.

Let us know what you conclude.

If you remove the right glove box you may be able to reach the back of the parking brake handle to see if the cable is hooked up. If you look at what looks like a plunger in the middle of the picture by the dust seal #18. That sticks out the caliper and has a lock nut on it, it looks like I was wrong saying a flat screw, it's square not slotted. but that is for adjusting the brake pads, using the method I explained before. I hope this makes it a little clearer. If not just ask again.        

model28a wrote:

If you remove the right glove box ...

+1, and easy to do.

I removed the exhaust/muffler and thoroughly checked the hand-brake caliper, and all appears to be good.

It does activate properly when I pull the lever, but the light in the dash doesn't show, and as said earlier, the ratchet/pawl system doesn't operate, and I'm assuming that it's part of the lever mechanism.

You might like to try searching 'parking brake' over on the left there.

I had similar trouble so look for my write up on it. I'm trying to post pictures but can't seem to login to the host site for the pics.

Watch this space.

If you need any parts for it I have the complete assy.

Donie wrote:

I removed the exhaust/muffler and thoroughly checked the hand-brake caliper, and all appears to be good.

It does activate properly when I pull the lever, but the light in the dash doesn't show, and as said earlier, the ratchet/pawl system doesn't operate, and I'm assuming that it's part of the lever mechanism.

Donie,
I had a similar problem with the light not working, turned out to be dirty contacts. Posted this in 2014 - might be worth a try.

Had the same problem a while ago. I took out the right side glove box and gave the contacts a dose of WD40, then worked the parking brake lever on and off a few times to clean the contacts. Works OK now, and the light comes on each time.
If you don't feel confident about taking the glove box out, you could try spraying through the slot where the p/brake lever is (through the rubber sleeve thingy). IIRC, you need to direct the spray upwards to get at the switch contacts doing it that way.

I've just replaced the Pads on the handbrake at 20000 miles. The existing OE pads had more 'meat' on them than the new ones I brought, so I think the existing pads would outlast the bike. Still a good idea to lube up the friction points.
The pads only have about 3mm of material from new, so save your cash, stay with existing.