clutch replacement

I don't see much discussion or info on the clutch ,how hard is it to change the clutch on the swing when you change the belt and variator ? do you need a special tool , dose it ever need replacement or maintenance ?

keith

The only thing needed for clutch maintenance is to sand the shoes with some sand paper or emery cloth to take the glaze off . Lock in the parking brake remove the nut and remove the clutch . Inside the bell there is a bearing that need to be grease with your finger and the end of the clutch where it sit's in the casing bearing for a dust seal.Other then that there is the clutch springs but not for a long time .I see no need for Dr pulley hit clutch unless for modification performance.There are different colour spring weights for rpm engagement.

Thanks Tinman ,

I have a virtually new OEM clutch , belt and variator on my parts wing to use to rebuild the drivetrain ....

keith

I replaced everything today , its scary , it rides like a brand new one , no vibration what so ever , as smooth as my goldwings if not smoother , you could push the belt together till it touched in the middle , has anyone had a belt that stretched and wore this much with out breaking ?

I think anyone with vibrations on a swing should look at the belt, variator and the clutch...

keith

Can you install the HIT clutch with out a bunch of special tools? Any video's on line?

kreiseldave wrote:

Can you install the HIT clutch with out a bunch of special tools? Any video's on line?

It's not in english but you get the idea.

I guess what your saying is yes you need special tools.

Wow, that's a beautiful tool. I wonder where it came from? It does not appear to be a 'official' Honda factory tool. It looks like that tool set adapts to both removing as well as reinstalling the clutch bell.

Tim

kreiseldave wrote:

Can you install the HIT clutch with out a bunch of special tools? Any video's on line?

The video shows the clutch inner being removed after the clutch outer and clutch itself have been removed from the rear drive. You don't need that special tool if you want to pull just the clutch. That special tool, or Honda's own special tool, is only needed to remove the clutch bell, or clutch inner, as it's called in the service manual.

Regarding installation of an HIT clutch, if the HIT uses the stock Honda clutch inner, then no special tools will be needed. AFAIK, the Dr. Pulley HIT clutch uses the stock Honda clutch inner. I have never installed or even seen a Dr. Pulley HIT clutch, so I could be wrong.

Thank You! I am installing a HIT clutch.....

Here's another video on clutch maintenance, again, not in English but very detailed.

kreiseldave wrote:

Thank You! I am installing a HIT clutch.....

Pretty straight forward replacement. No special tools required. You may want to get a hooked, T-handled, spring puller so that you can remove the clutch and push-pin springs easier to sort out the initial and lock-up engagement to your liking.

If the instructions which came with your HIT kit aren't clear on the matter, all the springs are interchangeable between the clutch and the push-pins. Lighter on the clutch, heavier on the push pins.

Tim

Thanks so much for the help!

Does anyone know what the thread size of the clutch drum is or where to get a tool to remove the drum

siataukreg wrote:

Does anyone know what the thread size of the clutch drum is or where to get a tool to remove the drum

Honda's service manual list the part number for the great tool used to remove and install the clutch bell, I have used mine for many years and it works today as well as it did 15 years ago. Happy motoring lloyd 193.

do you know the part no for it ?

siataukreg wrote:

do you know the part no for it ?

Thread size is 40mm x 1 mm

Part # 07ZMC-MCT0100 or 07MC-MCTA100 (USA only)

I have no idea why the part # difference for USA.

Tim

I think my SW600 clutch needs replacement, but I am a little surprised as the bike has only done 26000km. I first noticed something was not right cruising down the motorway the other day at 110-120km/hr engine speed was 6000rpm, where usually it sits around 5000rpm. The drive belt was changed 4000km ago, so normally it's not the belt slippage otherwise the indictor light would come up on the dash (engine turning faster than the back wheel). While stationary and the engine running, I applied the rear break to see if the engine would stall when I opened the throttle. All I got was a burning smell (assume the clutch), but the engine did not stall. Sometime ago I changed the sliders for a lighter weight, not sure that was a good idea. Acceleration was a bit better but not fantastic.

It could be belt or clutch slipping. There has been some debate about using lighter weight sliders causing over-revving of the engine. I had this problem when using 26g Dr Pulley sliders but in my case the V-light came on. I reverted back to stock rollers.

Check the belt and the clutch action. Also make sure that grease isn't seeping into the clutch shoe area.

Just my ten-bobs' worth

If you find that your clutch bell is scored and in need of replacement, below is a link to a DIY tool that Dave Kitchenman Batter made up to remove his clutch bell. Kind of bad pictures on that link but if you drop Kitchenman a PM I’m sure he’ll grace you with better copies.

And also an excellent tool assembled by Loosemarbles for the same job.

https://www.silverwing600.com/t12369-tool-to-remove-clutch-bell?highlight=Clutch+bell

https://www.silverwing600.com/t10987-clutch-bell-how-to-remove-replace?highlight=Clutch+bell

If you go too light weights they do leave the engine reving higher at that speed range - a higher engine speed at any given ground speed is how lighter weights gain better acceleration. It has been suggested that going too light will not allow the engine to reach it's top ratio.
It is one of the reasons I came away from 25gm Dr Pulley sliders.
In all probability your bike is fine.

Dave B wrote:

I first noticed something was not right cruising down the motorway the other day at 110-120km/hr engine speed was 6000rpm, where usually it sits around 5000rpm.  

At 6000rpm, your clutch weights are experiencing something like 2000g. At that speed the clutch is as locked up as it will ever be - even if it is as bad as mine was with no friction material left on it.

In any case, the clutch weights or shoes have nothing to do with the gear ratio that the vario system achieves. Don't be distracted.

Opening up the drive cover is not a big deal (I changed my clutch shoes last month) so having a look might be worth while. Have a look at your pulley weights and make sure they're not worn: check the weight of them and check them for flats worn on them.

Belt wear will also change your drive ratio; more wear means a lower drive ratio and more revs as the narrower belt sits deeper into the front pulley and the rear pulley increases in diameter to take up the slack.

And while it's open put the original weights back in to see if that brings the revs back down.
If it does you know it's just the nature of the beast with your light weights, if not start looking at other things, but try the simple stuff first.

steve_h80 wrote:

And while it's open put the original weights back in to see if that brings the revs back down.
If it does you know it's just the nature of the beast with your light weights, if not start looking at other things, but try the simple stuff first.

Does anyone do or has anyone tried heavy weights for the SW?

smellybeard wrote:

Does anyone do or has anyone tried heavy weights for the SW?

Yes. I tried 30gm weights.

I got very much improved fuel economy but had painfully slow acceleration (from ~45 mph) when trying to pass slower vehicles ahead —and that was on a flat smooth highway.

IMO If you are just putting around town 30gm weights will probably be acceptable.

I can’t quite wrap my head how those folks with JDM Silverwings get on with 30 gm weights as they were OEM weights for that market.

FWIW variator weights can be mixed. Alternating 30gm weights with OEM 28 gm weights would get an effective 29 weight.