oil and filter

Guys, I know this has been gone over many times, I have read a bunch of it. It has only confused me. What I am asking is if everyone could just respond with simply which oil and filter they use. No explanation necessary:) Thanks Dan

Oil filter Champion COF104
Oil: Eurol Sportbike 10W-40 Full Synthetic

i.m.h.o. there is one main point you need to look out for: modern oils designed for cars have friction reducing addives and are NOT appropriate for motorbikes. So when choosing oil, make sure it meets up to JASO MA(2) standards.

"The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use."

Amsoil 10W-40 Full Synthetic .

I use the Honda oil and filter

That is true for a m/c with a wet clutch. Doesn't apply to a scooter like the Silverwing since there is no "wet clutch".
To the original poster's question: Purolator PureOne oil filter, Rotella synthetic oil.

Ed W.

rodenbach wrote:

Oil filter Champion COF104
Oil: Eurol Sportbike 10W-40 Full Synthetic

i.m.h.o. there is one main point you need to look out for: modern oils designed for cars have friction reducing addives and are NOT appropriate for motorbikes. So when choosing oil, make sure it meets up to JASO MA(2) standards.

"The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use."

Any good quality motor oil will be happy in a SW. Watercooled engines all operate in pretty much the same parameters. Like automotive engines these operate in similar temperature ranges being water cooled. They don't have wet clutches as ucwinters mentioned. For a lot of years I've used DELO 15W40 in my Goldwings and my previous SW as well as the current one. My GW had 180,000 miles or so on the speedo when I sold it and was running like new. For filters I like Wix, NAPA gold and Honda. I avoid Fram due to their less than stellar internal construction. Regular oil changes are more important than brand of oil. Personally I don't think that synthetic oils are really worth the extra cost since these bikes will run near forever on regular dino oil.

I use Castrol Magnatec - I think it's a 10W or 15W-40. For the filter a Ryco Z411.

The Swing has done 120,000+kms and the oil still looks like it's from a new bike at change-time.

I do changes early though (5000kms), I figure because the oil and filter on special work out to be a cost of around $20 for the whole change, it's worth doing more frequently.

My Burgman 650 has just run out of warranty which means I'll be doing the servicing on that soon. I'll be using the same oil as the Swing, but i'll be buggered if I can find a filter from a car shop that matches. Seem to only be able to buy 'bike' shop filters, which means they cost 3 times as much.

Anyway, after the first change on the Burger, i'll examine and cross reference the filter off the Ryco site - they have a section on their webpage where you can enter the size, thread size and various other aspects of the filter to determine it's match... this might be my best bet.

Cheers all - ride safe!

Here is a link for an oil filter conversion adaptor for Suzuki's HTH. Tim

http://balestech.com/filter.htm

Wal Mart 10-40---has worked for last 500,000 2 wheel miles, including wet clutches


Fram 6017A again from WalMart

Honda Oil, Honda filter.

model28a wrote:

Amsoil 10W-40 Full Synthetic .

Are you still?

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40
Wix or NAPA Gold (same filter, different name and paint scheme)

Mudnman wrote:

model28a wrote:

Amsoil 10W-40 Full Synthetic .

Are you still?

Yes.

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40

I use Honda OEM filters or Fram XG 6607 ( bit better construction and rated for longer change intervals than the Fram PH 6017A), although I have use that one too with no problems.

My Goldwing likes Rotella 15W-40 dino oil but for some reason the SW did not. Used it once and I used a bit of oil. Switched and have not used a drop. Could be coincidence I suppose.

Advice? Just use quality oil and filter and change according to manufacturer specs. Can't go wrong...

I used Rotella T.Will probably use it in all my toys.Fyi it's good in race dirt bikes too.

Rotella-T + Purolator 14610 or 14612, whichever is the shorter of the 2. Use same combo in my V-Strom & has always worked great.

+1 for Rotella T and Fram filter.

Rotella most of the time or any quality oil. For the burgman and Swing I use NAPA gold, #1356 for the swing and 1359 for the burgman 650

I bought Quaker State 10W-40 and a fram Oil filter. I plan to do the change in the morning.

I just completed the oil change. I can see oil on the dip stick and oil inside with a flashlight.

My question is where should the oil come up to the dip stick? Lower, mid level or top? Also if you get a little too much is that a problem or not?

The oil level is taken by unscrewing the dipstick, clean it with a clean towel. Place the dipstick back in the hole, but DO NOT SCREW IT BACK IN. Remove the dipstick and the oil should be at the top line. Anywhere between the bottom and the top line is fine. You should be checking your oil lever on a regular basis. I check mine at least once a month. DO NOT FILL ABOVE THE TOP LINE. Over filling may cause excessive crankcase pressure. You could develop oil leaks. Excessive oil in the crankcase could rob your engine power, because the off set weights on the crank shaft will be encountering more oil when spinning.

Thanks for the TIP! I was wondering about screwing in the dip stick or not.

I like the Motul 4T 5100 / 10w40 for my AZ climate
and I'm using a Wix - WL10000 filter

But there's lot of options! The important thing to do is frequently change it.
At least annually if not every 6 months (some say). At least that's how I am with my motorcycles.
The scoot may be different? But I don't see how.

Do i understand correctly you can use car oil because of the lack of a wet clutch?

TheDude wrote:

Do i understand correctly you can use car oil because of the lack of a wet clutch?

You are correct, there is no wet clutch so automotive (energy saving) oils will not hurt.

GHM-PM wrote:

TheDude wrote:

Do i understand correctly you can use car oil because of the lack of a wet clutch?

You are correct, there is no wet clutch so automotive (energy saving) oils will not hurt.

Woot! Thanks.

Makes sense. I changed with full synth Valvoline "4 stroke" oil. But then I remembered "are not all modern gasoline engines 4 stroke?