Front Bearing DIY Installation Questions?

Got my new Honda front bearings and am ready to install them. The Honda Service Manual says "install sealed side face up"; however, it seems to me as if BOTH sides are sealed - so, how do I tell which side is 'sealed' or are both sides the same? Also, do I pack the entire length of the 'spacing collar' OD to the ID of the hub (a distance of about 0.1 inches) with grease? Thanks for any input you care to provide.

Hi Diamond,

If you look at the new seals you will notice a small spring around the inside dia (ID) do not remove it, just look for it. That spring goes to the inside (toward the bearing)when installing the seals.

Hope this helps.

If both sides are sealed it can mount ether way. I don't think you need to pack the spacing collar. If I am wrong someone will correct me I'm sure. And ditto to what Dennis said regarding the seals.

My question relates to the installation direction (or if it matters) of the 'sealed bearing' not the 'seal'. Thanks.

Dimond,

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The bearings "Sealed " side should always go to the outside when installing.

DennisB wrote:

Dimond,

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The bearings "Sealed " side should always go to the outside when installing.

Hi Dennis, How do I tell 'which' side (if any) is unsealed - as both sides look sealed and exactly the same? The Honda Service Manual refers to a 'sealed side' - but both my sides appear to be identically sealed. These bearing are from a 2008 SWing and the bearings that have been removed (old bearings) appear to be sealed on both sides also.

Dimond

Time to look closer at the bearing. Use a magnifing glass and look at the edge of the bearing outer race. There should be a manufacturer, number and any information like "THIS SIDE OUT" inscribed on the races edge. If not...install any way you want.

I am also trying to replace my front wheel bearings on my 2002 Swing. The manual calls for a bearing removal head and shaft to remove the bearing. Has anyone fabricated a tool, or removed the bearing without the tool? If so, can you explain the procedure. Thanks in advance.

WingMan02 wrote:

Has anyone fabricated a tool, or removed the bearing without the tool? If so, can you explain the procedure. Thanks in advance.

I bought a long punch for my front bearing removal but could not get any purchase on the bearing - the punch kept slipping off. Since I was very anxious to get the SWing back on the road, I took the easy way out - went to the dealer (one that has certified Honda Mechanics and a huge repair business) for help! I thought they would use a clever high tech device - but it was clear when I got the SWing back (with the old bearings in a bag) that they just banged the old bearings out using some sort of punch - not sure exactly what. It cost me $40 to get them banged out - and I installed the new ones - everything worked out OK. If I (had to) do it myself next time (not sure that I would actually do it myself as my dealer is close and I felt $40 was fair), I would bend a punch (or rod) and grind the end - so I could get some purchase (grip) on the bearing to punch it out. While I packed the space between the inner sleave (the spacer that goes between the two beariings) and the wheel with grease - I would not do that next time - or if I did, it would be a heavy lithium grease. The bearings I had could be mounted either way - as they were clearly sealed on both sides. A word of caution, when you pound the new bearings in - don't over do it (like I did), otherwise they 'pinch' the inside collar and don't turn as easily (when you put your thumb into my bearings they are very hard to turn); however, I have gone about 13,000 miles since I replaced my bearings and everything continues to turn and work just fine.

Finally, to answer your question, I don't have any first hand experience in getting the bearings removed and I am looking forward to hearing how others have successfully done this!

Here is a link from a Goldwing site regarding a DIY tool for removing the wheel bearing. http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14096

The gist of the tool --and very similar to Honda's tool-- is using a split bolt close in diameter to the bearing's i.d.. A screw driver is hammered deep into the split so that the bolt threads expand and jam tightly into the bearing i.d. The the bolt head is hammered to drive the bearing out of the wheel hub.

Check out the photos

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Here is a link from a Goldwing site regarding a DIY tool for removing the wheel bearing. Check out the photos

Very ingenious idea! I am looking forward to trying this out. Thanks for the tip.

Thank you for the information. Very informative. I was getting a turbine like sound when spinning the front wheel. It would get louder as I spun faster. I was not able to remove the bearing, but after I reassembled the front wheel, the sound went away. There was no wheel play, and when I inspected the bearing, it felt smooth, and tight.

You can get split bolt concrete anchor bolts that I've used for the Goldwing, something like that should work for the SW. My first GW front bearing change was done using a big bolt that fit the inside diameter of the bearing. I sawed about 3" down the center of the bolt and used a hammer wedge I got from the hardware store to wedge the bolt split tight in the wheel bearing. Heating the hub with the bolt in the bearing can also help since the aluminum expands faster than steel. Once you have one bearing out you can pull the center spacer and tap out the other bearing with the bolt used head first in the wheel. I drop a couple big washers inside the wheel on top of the bearing to give a good surface to land a punch on. The only caveat is that I've done this on a couple Goldwings but not a Silverwing though it looks much the same, albeit a bit smaller, on the Motogrid fiche drawing.
Chilling the new bearing in the freezer helps with installation as does heating the hub prior to inserting. Be sure to use something like a socket that fits the diameter of the new bearing because you don't want to press on the center of the bearing, only the outer shell.

Saw this post on another blog--
*******
Replace front wheel bearing in Silver Wing:  could not find a specific post, so here goes.

After putting 3500 mi in the wing in the past month (trip that included Rushmore, Yellowstone, Custer Battlefield, and Glacier), I heard a grinding sound coming from the front end. Bike's got 34k on it, a 2002.  Front pads or front wheel bearings?  I had just had the front tire changed (Diablos for IRCs) and grinding was suddenly very noticeable.   

I put the wing up on my floor jack, using a piece of 3/4 inch plywood under the middle section of the bike, so the bike was still on the center stand and the rear was touching the floor:  very simple and enough clearance for what came next. 
I pulled out the brake pads (no problem with the way the honda front calipher is designed) and spun the tire:  grinding noise still there, and pads looked great.  I tried the old "screwdriver to the ear" trick, with the metal end against the axle:  sounded bad; brake pads off the hook.  So I unbolted the axle, pulled it out and took off the front tire.  It's been my experience that with some bikes there is drama associated with removing the front tire.  None here: you need a 20mm socket to get the axle nut off, and an allen wrench to get at the pinch bolts, but the tire/wheel is light enough that you can pull on/off without a second set of hands, or breaking your back.
I followed the manual's direction to the T:  took off the disc (left side), then drove the bearings out with a drift.  Note:  your bearings are no good after this, so be prepared to wait for another set, or pre order a set so you can reinstall.  I noted there was a blue liquid on the left side of the wheel with the old bearings still inside, the left side sealed bearing clearly leaking.  Come to think of it, once on the trip I'd smelled an awful acrid stench coming form the scoot on a very hot day (over 95) after a long interval since the last stop.  I thought I might have fried an electrical wire (or something) but could find not find evidence of electrical problem.  I'm convinced I was smelling the goo (technical term) from the leaking bearing.  Just goes to prove the old saw:  if you think it's electrical, it's probably mechanical; and if you think it's mechanical, it's probably electrical.
Ordered new bearings.  None at the Honda shop ("be here in a week"), Bike Bandit has none, either; but about six people selling them on Ebay, so there's where I got them.  No lectures here, please, on using only Honda parts on the bike.  The bearings are industry standard 6004UU, and are used by many Motorcycle manufacturers on their bikes.  The dimension for the honda part is 20 mm inside diameter; 43m outside diameter; 13 mm wide.  A quick web search showed some listed as both 42 and 43mm outside diameter. The ones that arrived were 43mm outside diameter.  I got the ones from Ebay listed by a company called "All Balls," meaning all ball bearings, and not the other thing.  They were offered by a Kawasaki dealership.
BTW, get yourself a micrometer.  You can get a good one for less than 20 bucks, or less, at H-freight.  And it feels good, using your micrometer, pretending you know what you're doing, and is great for impressing the wife ("my hero").

For installation, the book says put the left side in first, which I did.  I went and  bought a bearing installation kit (at harbor freight) and used the 39mm attachment to drive the bearing in.  (29 bucks for the kit?  Rationalization:  bearing job is over 100 bucks at the honda shop.  For much less I got the bearing tools--and a swell plastic carrying case--and I'm still ahead!)  The sides of the outer race on the bearing bend down slightly, so the 39mm fitting from the bearing kit "fits," and you're not pounding on the plastic sealing of the bearing, but on the outer steel bearing race.  Before starting, I put the bearing in the freezer (to make them contract in the cold) overnight, and before I lubed/installed the bearings I heated the hub with a hair dryer. 
Let's be frank: physics usually kicks my butt--painfully--and in ways that involve band aids or worse.  But physics worked for me this time:  I saw the outside diameter shrink by one MM prior to installation, and although driving the new bearings in was not easy (that is, they still required a bit of work to get them into the wheel housing) it was not hard to do. Did both sides, put in the dust covers--oh, yes, be sure you put in the long space before you put in the right hand bearing.  I almost did this, but checked the manual prior to driving it in, saving me from endangering my immortal soul from all the awful things I would have said if I'd had to drive out the new bearings and order a new set.  When the wheel is between the forks and the disc is in the calipher, be sure to install the axle from the starboard side (won't fit from the port side (o: , and install the two bearing spacers before you install the axle  (o:

I think the problem with the bearings might have been caused by the honda shop:  I had some work done prior to my trip and they MIGHT have over tightened the axle nut:  books calls for...43? ft/lbs (be sure to check, I don't have the manual in front of me).  Over tightening could have caused the bearing to fail:  I'm just saying.  Book also calls for tightening the axle nut and left pinch bolt, taking the bike off the center stand and pumping the front forks up and down so the axle can center itself, before you tighten the right pinch bolt.  Best to do what momma honda tells you, I think (except for using their bearings, see above).  Bottom line:  no more grumbling from the front end, scoot seems to work just fine.

Summary:  hard to do?  Nope, just make sure you've got the right tools, which includes a torque wrench.  Bearings are easy to get, and in a scenario familiar from  my BMW/Harley days, cost alot less than the bearings from the maufacturer--about half price.  Total for two bearings and two dust covers from honda was over 50 bucks; two bearings and two dust covers cost about 18 bucks (25 after shipping) from the ebay provider.   I'm out about about 55 bucks for parts and the bearing kit, but now own a great bearing installation kit from HFreight, and have the smug self righteous knowledge that I'm probably superior to the rest of humanity for doing this myself.  All the best...

Now that would have been one hell of a first post in the introduction section as it is!!!!!

Welcome anyway!

I had mine replaced at the shop, he used big press looking thing, wheel on the table and then it went and pulled them out, installed was a different attachment on the same press and it pushed them in slowly and evenly. I didn't want to risk messing up an important part like this so I just paid him 21 bucks to do it when mine failed. I did take him the front wheel and save that labor though

My next door neighbour has a hydraulic press. I think I have used it more times than he has. We have never had anything beat us, presses in or out with no problems with mis-alignment. Worth it's weight in gold.

Cheers,

acworthpatrick wrote:

I had mine replaced at the shop >>[EDIT]<< I just paid him 21 bucks to do it when mine failed. I did take him the front wheel and save that labor though

At $21 Bucks, that's a bargain. It usually costs me twice that.

Hey all

On my SWT400 in France i am looking to change the wheel bearing (6004 2NSE)

Any advise? special tool needed?

Will the bearing come off easily?

I have the Silverwing service manual (should be the same) but I am at work now and looking for some idea

Thanks

Here is a link to an ADVrider forum thread on wheel bearing removal. They use expanding bolt cement anchors to lock into the wheel bearing, then drive the bearing out from the opposite side with a long punch: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25608669&postcount=29

On the SW wheel you need to remove the brake rotor side wheel bearing first so that the internal spacer can come out. It is best to heat (real hot) the wheel hub near the bearing with a heat gun so that the bearing will come out easier. And also put the new bearings in the freezer for several hours, or a day, so that they will go back into that heated hub easier.

[Edit] IIRC the bearings are 42mm diameter. To reistall the bearings I used an approximately 8 - 10 inch long piece of 1.50 inch I.D. PVC pipe with a saw cut about 5 inches long kind of splitting the tubing along its lenght. That way the PVC tube could squeeze together and fit against the 42mm O.D. of the bearing (frozen bearing, heated hub) while I hammered it home.

It's not a difficult DIY job at all but, that said, sometimes it is just a bit more practical to remove your own wheel and take it along with your new bearings and seals to a shop and have them do it. Or order the new bearings & seals from the shop and arrange to bring in your wheel for the job when the parts come in.

Tim