Brake Modulator, Tap A Taillight, AND a QUAD LED License Frame

Well, I finally installed my QUAD LED License Plate Frame. Here are all the details. The first file is a spreadheet with all the wiring diagrams. The second file (large) is a pictorial of what I installed. Feel free to ask any questions.

http://www.4shared.com/file/91852149/7a0a40eb/License_Wiring.html

http://www.4shared.com/file/91852884/a7df48d5/Silver_Wing_License_Plate_Frame_Wiring4.html

I hope you enjoy learning about what can be done. It sure fixed some of the winter blues.

Dennis,

Wow...that sure is pretty cool. It seems to be somewhat complicated but your pictures and explainations seem like it would make the job so much easier. I think I may try this sometime this summer. Thanks for taking all the time to do this "Pictorial" for this. When I decide to do this I'm sure I will be asking a few questions. Thanks again for all the work.

Dennis, Great article, thanks for posting this valuable information. Dick

Oh gosh, I didn't mean to make it complicated. You could just buy a license frame and hook up the wires to the existing harness and it would be fine. I just was planning for future items. Even my wife said the lights around the license look real cool! Thanks for your notes.

I am somewhat interested on putting a modulator to my brakelights, please tell me it is not as complicated as all this. Do I need the S-TAT and a Back-Off and just tap into the harness with the TAT and hook the modulator to that? Is there a walk-through that anyone knows about on how to do just that? Thanks.

som2002 wrote:

I am somewhat interested on putting a modulator to my brakelights, please tell me it is not as complicated as all this. Do I need the S-TAT and a Back-Off and just tap into the harness with the TAT and hook the modulator to that? Is there a walk-through that anyone knows about on how to do just that? Thanks.

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=12960#pid12960

I wanted parallel wiring without splicing so I could disconnect for diagnostics purposes.

The S-TAT was plug and play providing seperate wires. If you do not use the S-TAT, then I would suggest Posi-Taps ( http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html )

For the Backoff WigWag here is what I did
http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=15001#pid15001

^ first linky no worky.

looks good if i tried something like that would probably blow my bike up good info too

som2002 wrote:

^ first linky no worky.

All the links are working for me ... could you please retry.

Bill... same thing here...

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=12960#pid12960

Puts up a big "Access Denied" box.

ditto^

DickO wrote:

Bill... same thing here...

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=12960#pid12960

Interesting silverwing.org has some posts with unauthenticated access and some posts without


I am just about to start putting my tupperware back on ... just before I do I thought I would provide some wiring details.

My goals have been to ensure no stock wire modifications not even taping the stock wire.
If there is any problem I want to be able to quickly disconnect the additional wiring for problem determination.
Please note that some ideas were borrowed from this and other forums.

Grounding blocks
I added two grounding blocks http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/02207.htm
Front
Mounted under the left front cover facing left in the framing above the bottom of the left glove box rubber bushing
Rear
Mounted under the right cover behind the air filter housing facing up above the square frame
The front grounding block is connected to the rear grounding block with a 10 gauge wire
The rear grounding block is connected to the negative battery terminal with a 10 gauge wire

Power plate
I added two power plates http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplate.htm
Rear
Mounted under the right rear cover on the frame facing down just above the rear right seat storage panel for fuse access.
The power plate is directly connected with 10 gauge wire directly to the battery and is always active (no relay).
Front
Mounted on the top outside rear portion of the left glove box with just the fuses accessible from the glove box
** Note**
To avoid front fairing tupperware installation problems all of the wires

should be routed toward the rear of the framing closes to the
dashboard (I would zip-tip loosely to rear vertical frame member)
should have sufficient slack for movement
The front fairing turn signal extends into the "triangle area" of framing on both sides

Powers
Extra Spare 10 gauge wire
Routed near rear power panel just in case I need a rear off/on power panel in future
12V DC power plug mounted in top left of glove box (15A)
Power Plug kit, Universal http://www.electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplug.htm
Stebel Horn (15A) in front cavity upright approximately behind the speedometer even though I have an ABS model.
http://www.bikerhiway.com/horns-29/stebel-nautilus-compact-motorcycle-air-horn---black-74.html
I grounded the aluminium bolt into a U-channel would allowed me to slide over the frame and fasten
zip-ties and hot-glue
If you try shaking or moving you shake the whole bike
Original horn wiring not modified - just connected with male blades
Kuryakyn LED voltmeter (15A)
http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.htm


The front power plate is connected with a 10 gauge wire wire to a
relay which is mounted under the left rear panel on top of the square
frame.
The relay is directly connected to battery with 10 gauge wire

The relay is grounded to the rear grounding block (above) - 2
wires (10 gauge power and 18 gauge relay power detection)
The relay is connected to the front power plate with 10 gauge wire
The front power plate will only turn on when the running lights are on
Connected to the S-TAT running wire (below)
The relay provides "+" charging wire that disconnects automatically when then power is detected (running lights on)
The Batter Tender Plus is connected here - the plug is lays near the front of the under seat storage compartment
Negative wire of Battery Tender Plus plug is connected to the battery

Running/Left/Right/Brake lights
I added a Super TAT (S-TAT) http://www.twtouring.com/tap_a_taillite.htm

The S-TAT provides a 6-pin "Y" connector adapter (male/female/6-bullet
wires) that connects to the 6-pin adapter under the left panel near the
rear left seat storage panel.
The S-TAT connects to the the 4 of the 6-bullet wires.
I added 4 inline fuses (15A) right after the bullets for protection
Wished I used http://www.customdynamics.com/posilock_connectors.htm Posi-Lock Flat Fuseholder
The S-TAT is powered/grounded from rear power panel and grounding block
The Running/Left/Right/Brake/Ground lights wires are routed over the back outside top of the seat storage below latch
Each of the wires above is connected to 3 wire block
http://www.customdynamics.com/cage_clamp_connectors_details.htm 3 Position Cage Clamp Connector

Input
Output 1
Connected to 14 Gauge wire which is routed for access under rear aluminum wing
Other end to allow quick connect/disconnect http://www.customdynamics.com/posilock_connectors.htm Posi-Tite waterproof connector
Outside under the rear aluminum wing will be a 5 wire block to connect wires as needed on the rear
http://www.customdynamics.com/cage_clamp_connectors_details.htm 5 Position Cage Clamp Connector
Givi E52 brake lights will be connected here
Investigating
Knight Rider Sequential 12 LED Light Bar with Flashing Brake Alert http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_led_light_bar.htm
Signal Dynamics wigwag http://signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/wigwag.asp
LEDs
Output 2
Connected to 14 Gauge wire which is routed to behind the right front glove box -- for the future
** Note**
To avoid front fairing tupperware installation problems

should be routed toward the rear of the framing closes to
the dashboard (I would zip-tip loosely to rear vertical frame member)
should have sufficient slack for movement

The wire harness are wrapped in Gorilla tape for protection and follows the same path as the main Honda wiring
3 - 10 gauge wires
5 - 14 gauge wires separately for access in the future
These
wire harnesses had to cross the frame, I chose to cross on the thick
cross member frame (which is bolted) just in front of the rear storage
compartment.
The wire had to be routed and zip-tied to the rear of the cross member frame and do not cross over the frame ...
otherwise you will have problems when you put the under seat panel back on because it rests right on this frame.

So the Honda battery has only
two "+" connectors
two "-" connectors
everything else is connected via the power plates and grounding blocks.

All of the fuses are the same size, so I do NOT need 4 sets of spares.
I am hoping to add any future equipment quickly and easily ... we shall see.
I will try to take some pictures during daylight to capture all of this.