Trailer to pull behind Silverwing

Hi, I posted this a few years ago as a reply to a BurgmanUSA thread and I thought it was approriate to post it again here under its own topic.

I read every forum on every home built MC trailer and I decided to make my own using the best materials balanced against cost and my lack of welding skill. I started with the Harbor freight 3' X 3 1/2' frame with 8" tires because the parts I needed were cheaper buying as a kit vice piecemeal. Next I looked to save weight. I used the largest piece of aluminium that I had 26 1/2" X 40" .125" military surplus aluminium this with aluminium stiffeners became the 'frame' and the bottom of the trailer. This saves 30 pounds from the HF kit. The mil spec aluminium is far stiffer than commercial diamond plate I used the kit's tongue, axle (cut to fit) leaf springs (one of the two springs removed from each side).

Bolted together this gave me a basic flat bed micro trailer, next I built a box from 1/2" MDO plywood, this is the stuff used to make highway signs. When painted it looks like sheet metal. To eliminate the two wheel trailer tilt problem I connected the tongue to a catagory 1 tractor top link (female). The coupler was attached to the top link screw Male. the trailer swivels by slightly screwing and unscrewing. Over 8 threads remain in the coupler at all times.

The unit weighs under 100 pounds and has 9 cubic feet capacity. It does not effect handling but I do notice I can no longer exceed 85 mph. It does not look like a homebuilt unit (I think). 9 cubic feet is about 1/2 an average trunk's capacity. My total expense was about 280.00.










I did pull several specs, though. It is 87 total pounds with a tongue weight of 23.5 pounds. I located the steel from the Harbor freight kit that I did not use, they weight 48 pounds. Those were the pieces that formed the front, rear, rightside, left side and the center stiffener. Given that the HF kit weighs 110 pounds (for the kit with 8" tires) and that this kit does not include a box, while the box I put on weighs at least 25 pounds. I feel that the framless, unibody design is a viable option given its weight savings. I was suprised that the tongue weight was so high, I suspect that this is a function of the tongue being steel and/or I lengthened it too much. The common recommendation I have seen on home brewed HF based trailers is to move the tongue forward 10", I made mine 18 forward.

The misc steel pictured is the parts from the HF kit that were NOT used. They weighed 48 pounds most of that is weight savings, since the aluminium used to replace the steel did weigh something (I don't know how much). From what I have surfed there are not too many MC trailers that weigh less than 100 pounds and as far as I have read mine is the only two wheeled version that meets that spec.

Most MC trailers emphasize weight savings in either the frame (witness a one wheel trailer) OR in the cargo box i.e. thin plastic car roof top carrier). This design uses both. If I had used a roof top carrier I could have saved even more but 1. I could not find one to fit and 2. I am cheap. The MDO 1/2" plywood that I used weighs 1 pound per square foot.

Oh, for those that just don't happen to have scrap milspec aluminium behind their house, I recommend the Harbor Freight Hitch packer. These are the things that go int a reciever hitch. Their in an aluminum model that is desighned for those hanicapped scooters. That particilr model is quite ridgid and cost about 149.00 on
sale, model # 66303. Size 30 X 49 bigger than mine

Mmmmmmm! Very tasty!

Just as a point of interest;
Bike trailers in the UK (and Western Europe, I think) are constrained by strict regulations regarding overall dimensions and maximum/relative weight, hence the popularity of one-wheeled trailers.
In addition, as we're allowed to filter, having a narrow trailer means that one still can.
Overall width must not be more than one metre in any case and there is a maximum distance between bike rear axle and the rear of the trailer.
In the UK it is not permitted to exceed 60mph on a motorway or 50mph on other roads when towing. This is the same for cars.

Hi Toymeister, Thank's for all the great information. I just have one question. How and what did you use for edge structure and sealing material between the top (lid) and bottom half of the storege box (bottom). Extruded aluminum comes in allot of useful shapes.

Dennis, if I understand your question correctly you are talking about the wooden lid (2" from the top) and the wooden sides. And not the wooden sides and the aluminium base.

OK, before I cover the weather stripping I''ll tell you a secret. I built a wooden box with 5 sides. Then I made 1 saw cut along the long side of the box 2" from the top. Then I attached a full length hinge. finally I cut the remaining 3 sides. So the lid fit perfectly except for the 1/8th inch saw kerf.

The 1/8" saw kerf was was easy to seal with some nail on weather stripping. It was a white plastic stripping from Lowes. Rather than trying to hide the weather stripping I chose white. I used some 5.00 white decals from eBay to give it a profesional look. Those tie into the stripping.

Edge sructure, the sides are mdo plywood which looks great but the edges are well, plywood. So I covered then with very thin angle aluminium they are only cosmetic. The box was airnailed together. That really makes for a filmsy nox, so on the inside is 1' X 1" aluminium angle.

Nice trailer Toymeister. Is that an official,world renowned,classicaly designed Dennis Berney Hitch?? You sure did your homework and put that HF on a diet. The left over parts pic is a hoot. Seriously, nice job.
I'm just about to order the slipper springs that I was recommended....and see that one per side is the way to go.
I had a question about backing from a forum reader, and even with an 11 ft kayak onboard, I'm O.K. Have you experienced any probs backing, or turning in to soon....etc? Again, nice job. Jeff.

I used one of those Canadian #167 hitch. The fit was disappointing, I should have used the Dennis Berney Hitches.

I haven't had a problem with backing up with the trailer because I avoid it. It would be a problem as it is too long. It is much like a rowboat trailer in that aspect.